I arrived at my hotel in Athens a bit before 1:00 p.m. today
and was happy to be able to check into my room right away. While it’s not the newest of places, the
hotel is pleasant and is in a great location about five minutes’ walk from the
base of the Acropolis. I dropped my
things, changed into tennis shoes, grabbed a quick lunch, and hit the bricks.
With gray skies and rain threatening, I initially thought that
my best bet would be to head to a museum for the afternoon. But as I started walking, it occurred to me that
it wasn’t raining yet and I was just minutes
away from one of the greatest places in Western civilization. A quick
check of my guide book informed me that the ticket to the main archeological
sites is good for four days, which sealed the deal. I doubled back and walked the short distance
to the entrance of the Acropolis.
At the ticket office, I saw something about a student
discount and found my NUI Galway student card on the odd chance that it applied
to middle-aged Americans. I was delighted to find out that not only was
I entitled to a student discount, I was entitled to free admission because I am a student at an European Union
university. Now that’s a deal.
As I started up the path, I felt the slightest bit of
drizzle and debated opening my umbrella.
As it turned out, it was unnecessary – the rain held off. However, the Acropolis is a rocky hill, and
most everything built on it is marble, including the stairs. After I slipped on a step and then stepped in
a puddle, I realized that I may have been better off leaving my hiking boots on.
The Parthenon. They really loved Athena. |
The path up the western approach of the Acropolis takes you above
the Odeion of Herodes Atticus, a 2nd Century AD theater, as well as
the Theater of Dionysos from the 5th Century BC. You pass through a fortified gateway, and
then walk up the stairs of the Propylaea, the grand entrance to the sacred
hill. And then, there it is in front of
you on the rock: the Parthenon. A
building that is immediately familiar even though you’ve never been anywhere near it. You think about just how familiar
it is – because of all of the monuments, courthouses, libraries, and government
buildings that have the same lines, the same columns. And this is what started it 2,500 years ago.
View of the Agora from the Acropolis. |
I walked back down the hill and over to a smaller rock
outcropping, the Areios Pagos. This was
the site of the first aristocratic assemblies in Athens, before they invented
democracy. It was also the seat of their
court of justice. And apparently someone
named Paul used to talk to Athenians about a new religion from this point.
The wind had been picking up throughout this time, and I
decided that I had probably pressed my luck far enough. In any event, it was already after 3:00 and
most of the outdoor sites were closing.
So, I walked back toward my hotel and the new Acropolis Museum. Once again, my NUIG Cárta Aitheantais Mic Léinn did the trick.
This museum, which opened in 2009, is spectacular. Architecturally, it is fantastic. It was built over an early Christian
settlement, which has been excavated and is visible through the glass floors of
the museum. This provides some great views as you stroll
through the first floor galleries. (But when
you are on the fourth floor and realize you can still see all the way down through the glass floor, it throws you off a bit.)
The fourth floor is set at a 23 degree angle from the floors
below to provide an optimal view of the Parthenon on the hill just to the
north. The fourth floor consists of an
interior rectangle surrounded by columns, all matching the exact measurements
of the ancient building above. The walls
hold the friezes that have been recovered and reconstructed from the matching
interior walls of the Parthenon, while the columns hold the reliefs from the
outer edge. At either end are the
pediment sculptures.
The museum’s collection is quite impressive. On the fourth floor, where the original
reliefs are not present, replicas take their place. But if they don’t have the originals, how did
they know what to make the replicas look like?
And why is every other place
occupied by a replica that is labeled with “(BM)”? Well, as some of you may know, much of the
Parthenon was carted off to London in the late 19th Century by the British
Ambassador to Greece, and now resides in the British Museum (BM). Apparently the Greek government has been
working for years to get these pieces back.
But what I found interesting is that part of the (BM)’s objection to a
return was always that the Greeks didn’t have adequate facilities to store and
display these treasures. And that, my
friends, is part of what motivated the construction of a new museum, complete with
conspicuous gaps in the original works reminding us those originals are
someplace called (BM).
I won’t take sides on who has the stronger legal or moral
argument, but having seen both museums, the Acropolis Museum certainly has an
edge in terms of its exhibition capacity.
Just a short time after I arrived at the museum, I heard
thunder. Heavy rain started soon
after. I had a nice salad and a pot of
tea in the third floor restaurant as I watched the storm. By the time I left, the rain had stopped, but
resumed later this evening. Hopefully,
there will be some clear skies tomorrow.
But even with rain the trip seems off to a good start.
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